Since a young child I have always been especially sensitive and appreciative of all things beautiful be they look, feel, sound, or smell beautiful. I have always loved flowers and gardening as well which I learned from my grandfather. I grew up in the 70's and 80's and always loved the sweet and elegant florals of the women's perfumes and found the harsh spicy, citrusy, men's perfumes irritating and outright offensive. It wasn't until I tried The Baron, Aramis JHL, and CK Be, that I finally found perfumes that were only warm and sweet totally devoid of any sort of harsh spiciness. Still I felt that as men, when it came to perfumery, we were being cheated terribly. Still it was a women's world, unless more men were like me and didn't give a damn if I perfume was supposed to be for a woman or a man, that I wore what I pleased. So I began to learn more about perfumery to figure out what I liked about perfumes and what ingredients I found so totally offensive I couldn't wash them quickly or completely enough. But at that point my knowledge of perfumery was an elementary crude alchemy of well-meaning but amateurish witches brews of natural essential oils and absolutes that I could afford at the time, which didn't expand much beyond neroli, lavender and ylang. Then as I went though college and medical school, which I had to pay for myself by working a full time and part time job while going to classes, labs, full time not even taking summers off, and taking out huge students loans. This hardly left me time and money to spray on some drugstore cheapies let alone create them. Then graduating as a new M.D. with years of poorly paid residency ahead and 6 figures of student loans following me like the financial grim reaper, I joined the Army which not only paid me for my residency but forgave my loans and paid me a very nice bonus. Once I got out 4 years later, I used this bonus, plus the GI bill and took a sabbatical from medicine to formally learn perfumery. When I applied it seemed like my doctorate of medicine was going to totally disqualify me for consideration for the 2 year perfumer program. But it turns out 2 of us unlikely candidates were chosen "just for the fun of it." and we made for perfect lab partners. The other guy was a 20 year old French guy from the Provence countryside who nothing about chemistry other than he knew perfume was made up of chemicals. With the cruel amount of bio and organic chemistry I had to suffer through as a premed student we were perfect partners. And together we made it through. He is still a Givaudan perfumer and currently is in charge of making perfumes for household products for the South American market. I have since remained active in perfumery on a part time, mostly free lance, basis. As a perfumer and also a perfumista I am strongly and passionately against assigning a gender to perfumes. As a forensic pathologist I have performed thousands of autopsies and am very familiar with anatomy, and believe me a perfume does not have a gender, as it has no anatomy, nor does it have an X or Y chromosome. Seriously, who is to say just how I as a man should smell or how a lady should? Even though I wear anything I want, there are perfumes that I actually find too feminine and would for that reason not wear even if they were for men. Also we all have smelled a lot of women's perfumes that are more masculine smelling than a lot of men's and vice versa further evidence that the whole concept is asinine and should be totally done away with. My taste is perfumes is either the very instantly animalics, especially the vintage formulations were the natural animalics where used. As a perfumer I still ethically and legally source raw natural deer musk, beach (or from fishnets) found ambergris, humanely farmed civet, and castoreum. In addition to the animalic bombs I love to wear the pure florals, mostly the soliflores. I will sometimes wear the women's but as a rule find myself preferring those marketed as shared or unisex because they tend to be no sweeter than they natural flower, which I like. My favorite animalic perfumes are Serge Lutens Muscs Koubläi khan and vintage Amouage for men. My favorite floral is Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie, which is unisex, although this site incorrectly shows it, as it does many perfumes, incorrectly as being only for women. That information, as well as that ALL Serge Lutens, and Demeter perfumes I have obtained directly from the corporations, so I am certain of the validity. My favorite rose is my own Es Lebt die Rose and Montale's Highness Rose. My favorite lilac is Highland Lilac. The best tuberose is PK perfumes, TNT, and Annick Goutal Tubereuse, Violet Trumper Ajaccio Violets, Gardenia Forever Florals Gardenia, Iris my own Iris Powerhouse and 28 La Pausa, Demeter's Honeysuckle does not last beyond a few hours but while it does it's the most true to live flower on the market. I have nothing to compare it with other than the lemon trees blooming in the winter in my greenhouses, and that is Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier. In closing my two biggest pet peeves are when people mispronounce ambergris by pretending he or she is French. When speaking English, the English pronunciation is not like "ambergree, like rhyming with "agree" but ambergriss where the concluding S is pronounced. The other is using the widely-used misnomer in American English "cologne" to mean any perfume marketed primarily for men. A cologne is a very unisex light perfume based on citrus oils, petitgrain, neroli, sandalwood, and musk and sometimes some light floral notes, but to be a cologne it has to be predominantly a light citrus and citrus blossom perfume. It was named after Colongne, Germany (Köln in German) which has been making world famous 4711 cologne for centuries. I am very opinionated and freely express my opinions but am always open to listing to opposing viewpoints and welcome anyone agreeing or disagreeing with anything I say anywhere on this site to send me a message privately or on a message board. I believe there is nothing wrong with totally disagreeing as long as everyone remains polite, respectful and agreeable. Also if anyone sees any perfume in my wardrobe and wants a sample or even a decant sent me a message. Also in my perumer's organ I have just about every natural absolute, essential oil, oil infusion, resin, tincture, isolate, concrete and synthetic aroma molecule available to professional perfumers. If anyone wants a small sample of any perfume or substance I have I am happy to send it for one perfume lover to another with my compliments. If you want a larger amount or a decant, we can either work out a swap or a price if it's hard to get or expensive, but if it's not all that expensive I would just give that to you too. I am pleased to be on here and get a lot of enjoyment discussing perfumes with all of you and reading what you have to share be that in agreement or complete disagreement with my findings. I wish everyone the best and best of luck finding all the perfumes that we love the most and at prices we can afford.
Over a decade ago I bought Gal violet soap from the duty free shop at the airport in Madrid and it was a very unusual violet smell. It was cleaner, brighter and more tart than violet usually is and it seemed to have the sparkle of andehydes. At that moment I knew all I had to do was find that fragrance in a perfume and I would have the perfume of my dreams. Imagine the joy I felt when I found out that Gal also includes a perfume in their violet line. I ordered it but when it arrived it was the sweet, cottony, candy violet typical of all the rest of the violet perfumes that I truly liked but did not obsess over like the violet scent of that soap. Because I love the smell of the black locust trees when they are in bloom every May, I had been on a long quest to find a black locust soliflore which was also an impossibility as it seems that only in Russia do that appreciate these honey sweet white flowers hanging like bunches of grapes from full size trees. As a perfumer I set out to make my own black locust soliflore but since there is no absolute available, I had to recreate it by looking at a chemical analysis that had been made of natural black locust absolute, And it took quite a number of years before I was satisfied with it because it was only during one week of the year that I could work with it and tweak the formulation as I compare its smell to that of the actual living blossoms, which it something that both perfumers and those critiquing soliflores should both do a lot more often than they do. Since there were no black locust soliflores I decided to try all the perfumes on the market that have a major black locust note and Frederic Malle's Une Fleur de Cassie was among them. I love the transparent way Frederic Malle and his chosen group of master perfumers go about creating these masterpieces where cost plays no role in their creation. Just by looking at how many masterpiece perfumes have been ruined by brutal reformulations to cut costs and/or comply with regulations it stands as sad testament of creative genius stifled and not allowed to bloom in full grandeur because of costs or regulations. At least Frederic Malle removed all the cost restrictions.
When I took my first whiff of Une Fleur de Cassie from a 5ml decant I had ordered I was immediately brought in touch with that wonderful tart violetty floral olfactory nirvana that had alluded me since I last had a bath with the Gal violet soap. Like I have said, it's fresh, clean and much more tart than violet or orris notes and it has the tingly sparkle of aldehydes. To me it's how I imagine violet sweettarts would be if there were such a thing. Even though I still love Serge Lutens' Muscs Koubläi Khan I did vow to myself that this would be my signature scent if I ever could find it in a perfume and I am pleased to stick to my word.
Train the orangutans at the Oregon
Primate Center to master the abstract
expressionism style of painting. As
soon as they can render a reasonable
facsimile of a “Jackson Pollock,”
supply them with art materials for
the making of signs and banners for
the 1972 National Democratic Conven-
tion. If the Republican Party wants
to hire your primate sign painters,
use your discretion.
Although we will pass your suggestion along to our
Convention Director’s office for future reference, your idea
unfortunately may be precluded by a previous commitment
to the chimpanzees at the Miami Zoo who have apparently
mastered Miro.
Assemble all former drug addicts,
alcoholics, and convicts in America,
give them a paint brush with a handle
large enough to accomodate their col-
lective hands, and have them drag the
brush across stencils of the Fifth
Amendment placed on Penn Central rail-
road tracks. Use psychedelic colors
combined with red, white, and blue.
Engage Avedon to take life-size photo-
graphs of your 735 members in gestures,
or poses, which simulate the religious
paintings of El Greco. Drymount the
photographs to the inside section of
refrigerator and freezer doors made by
your society.
Build a 75’ wide conveyor stage
from New York city to Los Angeles.
Search flophouses and cloisters
for fallen movie stars and bar-
tenders, costume them in Renaissance
garb, and pay them $10 a day to per-
form vignettes about the sex lives
of Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo
as the stage moves across America.
Sell your Las Vegas casinos
and use the proceeds to con-
struct a giant jet, with good
north light and crap tables,
capable of holding America’s
artists, retired military
personnel, and circus aerial-
ists. Fly flight patterns
reminiscent of Japanese
calligraphy over former World
War II retention campsites
while showing movies starring
Guy Madison.
Paint your student body with acrylics
of varying hues, press the painted
students against surf boards covered
with watercolor paper, and plant the
boards upright on any street lacking
palm trees.
Thank you for your suggestion. We find that when the
students smile — as they do on occasion — it cracks the
acrylic paint and everything comes unglued.
But thanks anyway.
Assemble your faculty and student
body in the auditorium of your
“magic mausoleum,” provide them
with magic amrkers, ballet slippers,
and Mickey Mouse ears, and send them
out to color every submerged object
within a 3,000 mile radius of your
campus. Next, collect, grade, and
exhibit the objects in movie theater
pop corn machines during the showing
of Walt Disney movies.
I have passed your project on to Allan Kaprow who has
assumed the responsibility for carrying out your proposal
and I’m sure he will report the results to you when the
project is completed. Our whole faculty and a good part
of our student body has responded to the project with
much enthusiasm.
Place your Art Museum and Marquand
Art Library on one end of a see-saw.
Hire a herd of elephants to jump on
its opposite end so that the buildings,
and their staffs, land in Ashtabula,
Ohio, and remain there for one week
dispensing knowledge. Repeat the pro-
cess until every American city of 10,000
inhabitants, or less, has been visited.
Initiate a new line of Pop Art automobiles by
stamping out the bodies in the shapes of current
celebrities beginning with a horizontal
Ralph Nader for the first 100,000 cars of the
line. For the second series stamp out 500,000
bodies in the shape of General Charles DeGaulle
with emphasis of his strong facial character-
istics. The auto bodies’lengths should
duplicate exactly the heights of the celebrities,
for example, if Nader is 5’10” tall the first
series should be 5’10” from bumper to bumper.
Use your discretion for other specifications.
please change the receiver
shapes so that those phones customers who wear
earrings do not have to remove them to answer
the phone.
Fill the Grand Canyon with Hunt’s tomato
paste which has been dyed ultramarine blue.
Then, with proper earth moving equipment,
scoop out large sections in relief from the
top layer going down at least forty feet
below the surface. After this has been
completed spray the mass of tomato paste
with clear lacquer to make the largest nutri-
tious earthwork relief in the world.
Melt the coinage from union dues collected
during a one year period. Next, coat the
Capitol building in Washington, D.C., with
the melted metal so that the coating is at
least three feet thick. Assign union members
to polish the building daily.
Find colossal Mayan statues which depict
mothers nursing their infants. If none
can be found, make statues of your members
nursing their babies and bury them at the
Mayan sites of Copan, Chichen Itza, and Tikal.
Beginning with your June, 1970, issue of
Playboy, enlarge the “Playmate of the Month”
centerfold so that it measures 100 by 100
feet. Instead of showing the full figure,
show only a detail selected each month by
members of A.S.P.C.A. or the La Leche League.
Assemble every fashion model shown in
your magazine for the past ten years,
dress them in my red, white, and blue
Poncho-Ponchos © (plural clothing using
Velcro tape so that two or more persons
wearing Poncho-Ponchos can attach or
detach themselves at will), and dispatch
them in chain-like fashion to stand guard
around America’s most important art treasures.
If I saw them in the street I would run them over so
fast,
a herd of them in the middle of the street.
Yellow and greening all over my windshield, just
cause I told them I loved em.
The broad died
turned over to ask where I went and they killed her.
8:47 am in the morning, those birds never say
goodbye
I’m only thirteen and all these bastards are in herring
glasses.
I stopped by the old place yesterday, they tour the
building down and made it into a club. One you can
hit with.
Performance
Elegance
Art
Nonsense
Uniqueness
Talent
Museums were, and are, part of an organization of the public sphere aimed at taking hold of and defining the interests, culture, pleasures, daily practices, and “highest aspirations” of a public. Why do people go to museums? what does the museum promise? In the words of Philadelphia Museum publications: “happiness,” “ideal beauty,” “liberation from the struggle imposed by material needs.” How can one make good the museum’s promise? A docent might know. She’s the museum’s representative. As a volunteer she represents both the class interests embodied in the museum and its philanthropic purpose: the public good. She’s in identification with the board of trustees.
As Jane Castleton, I articulate what the museum wants. But against this museum discourse, I want to introduce what Jane wants, what I want: specifically, the point at which it exceeds what the museum promises, or takes it too literally, or takes herself as its object. The split between her discourse and the museum’s is conditioned on her position in the institution: as a woman, as a non-expert, as a volunteer—not a high level patron. This split is a wedge I hope to introduce into the chain of identifications, visitor/docent/bourgeois patron
It is not in suffering, in adversity, that my optimism finds a stumbling-block, but in the ugliness and maliciousness of men.
The great danger is letting oneself be monopolized by a fixed idea. Goethe managed to avoid it. Neither Tolstoy nor Barrès did. At a certain age the field of vision frequently narrows. ‘Convictions’ are bad; I hope to purge myself of them
To what a degree the same past can leave different marks - and especially admit of different interpretations.
The gifted young Italian poet and essayist, Lauro de Bosis (1901-31), became an active anti-Fascist and, learning to fly for this purpose, flew over Rome on 2 October 1931, scattering leaflets addressed to the population and to the king. Chased by pursuit planes, he vanished at sea on the return flight.
The son of F., my tailor, provides me with a wonderful start for a theatrical character while I am trying on a suit:
‘It needs to be full here,’ I tell him.
And he says at once:
‘Yes, full . . . while being slightly . . .’
And he does not finish his sentence.
I imagine this quirk, much more deeply rooted and hence much more powerfully comic than a purely verbal quirk, and more revealing of character: each of his thoughts is accompanied by its shadow; he agrees with a reservation, but a reservation that remains vague and only half formulated. He says:
‘Obviously . . . yet on the other hand . . .’
‘Yes . . . but nevertheless . . .’
The characters of tragedy are always, more or less, idle people. It is hard to imagine a Hamlet harassed by the need to earn his living. The ‘to be or not to be’ is a fruit of leisure.
To be sure, I have already known periods of slackening enthusiasm, and I know that I got over them; but at that time I was young. Is there enough space left ahead of me, henceforth, to spring forth anew? For all the impetus acquired in the past does not seem to me of any help for what I now want to write. And this is above all the reason for my silence. I am in this sanatorium to rest, to take care of myself, to find out what I am still worth and whether or not I can still dare.
My desperate waiting, despite everything, takes on the colour of hope.